Polynucleotides
One of the fastest growing treatments in UK aesthetics, and one of the least well explained. Here is what polynucleotides actually are, what the appointment involves, and what the evidence does and does not support.
At a glance
The short version. Everything below expands on it.
- Skin quality, hydration, fine lines, under eye texture and dark circles
- Usually three, two to four weeks apart
- Gradually from around three weeks, best at eight to twelve weeks
- Six to nine months, then a top up
- £320 a session, £850 for a course of three
Prices from the UK Aesthetics Pricing Benchmark.
About Polynucleotides
What polynucleotides are
Polynucleotides are chains of purified DNA fragments. In aesthetic products they are most often derived from salmon or trout, because that DNA is highly compatible with human tissue and can be purified to a very high grade.
They are not a filler and they are not botulinum toxin. They do not add volume and they do not relax muscle. They work on the quality of the skin itself, which is why the change is gradual rather than immediate.
How they work
Injected into the skin, polynucleotides act on fibroblasts, the cells responsible for producing collagen and elastin. They also hold water in the tissue and have an anti-inflammatory effect.
The practical result is skin that is better hydrated, slightly firmer and more even in tone. Because you are stimulating the skin to do the work rather than filling a space, the change builds over weeks and continues after the course finishes.
What they are used for
The under eye area is by far the most common use in the UK, because the skin there is thin and responds visibly to improved hydration and thickness. It is also an area where filler often goes wrong, so a treatment that improves quality without adding volume is attractive.
- Under eye hollowing, crepiness and dark circles caused by thin skin
- General skin quality on the face, neck and decolletage
- Acne scarring and post inflammatory texture
- Hair loss, where the scalp is treated
- Skin laxity in areas not suited to filler
Common brands in the UK
Products differ in concentration, chain length and whether they are pure polynucleotides or combined with hyaluronic acid. The brand your practitioner uses should be recorded in your notes along with the batch number.
- Plinest, one of the longest established and most studied
- Vitaran, often used for the under eye area
- Nucleofill, available in several strengths
- Ameela, frequently used for skin and hair
What to expect
The timeline
- 1
Day 0
Small bumps at each injection point, usually settling within a few hours. Some bruising is normal, particularly under the eyes.
- 2
Days 1 to 3
Swelling and any bruising peak and start to fade. The area may feel slightly firm.
- 3
Week 1
Bumps have gone. Most people notice the skin feels better hydrated before it looks different.
- 4
Weeks 3 to 4
First visible change in tone and texture. This is usually when the second session is done.
- 5
Weeks 8 to 12
Best result, around four to eight weeks after the final session in the course.
- 6
Months 6 to 9
Effect gradually reduces. Most clinics recommend a single top up session at this point rather than a full course.
Aftercare and risks
Aftercare
- Leave the area alone for the rest of the day. Do not massage or apply pressure to the injection points
- Avoid makeup on the treated area for 12 hours
- Avoid strenuous exercise, saunas, steam rooms and sunbeds for 48 hours
- Avoid alcohol for 24 hours, which reduces bruising
- Sleep on your back with your head slightly raised for the first two nights if the under eyes were treated
- Do not have facials, peels, laser or microneedling for two weeks
- Use sunscreen on the treated area
- Contact the clinic if pain increases rather than settles, or if the skin changes colour
Risks and side effects
- Bruising, which is common under the eyes and can last up to two weeks
- Small visible bumps at the injection points for a few hours to a few days
- Swelling, particularly in the first 48 hours
- Tenderness at the injection sites
- Infection, which is uncommon but requires prompt treatment
- Allergic reaction, which is rare. Products are fish derived, so a fish allergy needs to be declared
- Disappointment with the result, which is more likely where the expectation was volume rather than skin quality
For practitioners
Notes from the treatment room
- Assess whether the concern is genuinely skin quality. A hollow tear trough caused by volume loss will not be corrected by polynucleotides, and setting that expectation at consultation avoids an unhappy client at week twelve.
- Record the brand, strength, batch number and injection technique. Products in this category are not interchangeable and the market is moving quickly.
- Ask about fish allergy specifically. Most consent forms do not prompt for it and most clients will not volunteer it.
- Photograph in consistent lighting at baseline. The change is gradual enough that clients frequently forget their starting point.
- Price the course rather than the session where you can. The result depends on completing it, and per session pricing encourages people to stop after one.
Polynucleotides questions
What are polynucleotides?
Polynucleotides are chains of purified DNA fragments, usually derived from salmon or trout, injected into the skin to improve its quality. They stimulate the cells that produce collagen and elastin, hold water in the tissue and reduce inflammation. They are not a filler and do not add volume.
How long do polynucleotides take to work?
Most people notice better hydration within the first week and a visible change in tone and texture from around three to four weeks. The best result is usually at eight to twelve weeks, which is four to eight weeks after the final session of a course.
How long do polynucleotides last?
Six to nine months for most people after a full course of three sessions. The effect fades gradually rather than stopping, and most clinics recommend a single maintenance session at that point rather than repeating the whole course.
Do polynucleotides work?
There is reasonable evidence that they improve skin hydration and quality, and the mechanism is well understood. They work well for skin quality and poorly for volume loss, so results depend heavily on whether the treatment was the right choice for the concern. Anyone promising a dramatic change from a single session is overselling it.
Are polynucleotides safe?
They have a good safety record in trained hands. The common effects are bruising, swelling and small bumps at the injection points. Because the products are fish derived, tell your practitioner if you have a fish allergy. As with any injectable, infection is possible and needs prompt treatment.
How long do polynucleotide bumps last?
The small raised bumps at each injection point usually settle within a few hours and almost always within 24 to 48 hours. Under the eyes they can occasionally take a little longer because the skin is thinner.
How much do polynucleotides cost in the UK?
Around £320 a session is the middle of the UK market, with most clinics between £200 and £500. A course of three typically runs £850, ranging from £600 to £1,300. London and the South East sit at the higher end.
Are polynucleotides better than filler under the eyes?
They are a different treatment for a different problem. Filler replaces lost volume. Polynucleotides improve the quality and thickness of thin skin. Where dark circles are caused by thin, crepey skin rather than hollowing, polynucleotides are usually the better choice and carry less risk in that area.
Related treatments
Profhilo
A stabilised hyaluronic acid injected at five points per side to improve skin laxity and hydration.
Skin boosters
Injectable hydration for skin quality rather than volume, covering a broad family of products.
This page is general information about a treatment, not clinical advice, and it is not a substitute for a consultation. Treatment decisions should be made with a qualified practitioner who has assessed you in person.
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